It was a black halter dress bedecked with very ’50s red cherries and matching piping. Flattering in that fit-and-flare way that has me wishing I was born in an earlier era, the dress was a vintage dream.
“Where did you get that?” I gasped, admiring the red patent leather belt.
“H & M,” the girl replied in a rare burst of haberdashery honesty.
At the time, there was no H&M within 100 miles of me – a thought that seems preposterous these days when they are as ubiquitous as K-Marts once were – and so I simply filed it away in my mind. Several years later when I moved to a city with an H&M, I made it my goal to go find me my own LBD.
Upon first entering the store, I thought I might have a seizure. My dingy thrift store mind was overwhelmed by the exploding lights, neon patterns and pulsing music. But once I found my footing – and saw a price tag – I was hooked. I could finally afford clothes that looked like the ones in magazines! And with all the assortment and high merchandise turnover, I would finally be Unique! I’d get my own style and nobody else would look like me.
I’ll wait while you stop laughing.
Because of course everybody looked like me. Sadie Stein from Jezebel sums it up nicely: “But the reality is that we are far more homogeneous in our distinctively-printed designer knockoffs than we would be in simpler basics. The idea of high style comes to us pre-packaged, complete with eclectic jewelry and accessories, and I’m guessing this paradoxical illusion of the unique is at the expense of individual creativity.”
But that’s not the worst of the Forever 21 sins. Not only are we not as cute as we think we are, we’re not as thrifty as we think we are either. Sure that dress only costs me $25 (oh, excuse me – that’s $24.99 in industry parlance) but it probably came from one of the multitudinous garment districts, a.k.a. slums, like “Dhaka in Bangladesh, home to 2.5 million garment workers, 75 per cent of whom are women and children.” Liz Jones of the Daily Mail goes on to explain the human and environmental costs of throwaway fashion. Workers, often underage children, are paid less than $5 a week and live under canopies of plastic bags to bring us those cheap-n-trendy lovelies. The problem, according to Jones, is compounded by the belief “that women (it is particularly women who have fed this trend for ever-cheaper clothes) now think very low-cost but fashionable designs are their ‘right’ because they are ‘worth it’.”
I’m not sure what to make of all this. I love cheap clothes. (Especially cheap workout clothes!) I’ve never owned a designer anything in my entire life and don’t plan to start now. I’m also not into potato sacks. Is there a way to look cute on a budget (and I do not mean that in the Vogue sense where an $800 dollar purse is a steal because they compare it to a $4,000 one) that doesn’t exact this kind of toll on people and the environment? Help me!
Originally posted on The Huffington Post
I’ve been wondering the same thing. Are the only clothes that are affordable manufactured by grossly underpaid women and kids? Am I contributing to the exploitation of children who are the same ages as my own kids?
I don’t have the answers. But I do think about it. A lot.
Loved this post, Charlotte, and I agree with azusmom. No answers, but it’s something you think about.
Very interesting dress. Not sure what I think of it.
I’ve been struggling with this for a while now because I hate spending a lot of money on clothes (especially when I would just rather buy a new workout outfit) and the more conscious I become of where my clothes, food, etc are made – the less I buy. I don’t have the time to research every companies TRUE ethos. But, I do want to live budget and people friendly. What’s a girl to do?
I return to the states in 30 days, and I have almost NO clothes left in my belongings because I didn’t go shopping for so long that I wore stuff out or (whats the opposite of outgrew) it. I have no choice but to go shopping. Agh!
Oh No… don't make me feel guilty for shopping at H&M, I love that place! 🙁 (I'm not a designer knock-off fan though, I actually try to buy a lot of classic, simple-yet-elegant clothes from there.)
As for the genuine ethical issue.. I don't know the answer. Over here, all the affordable clothing chains seem to have come under some form of attention for infractions in Third World countries. Is buying clothes that cost the earth the only way to shop guilt-free?? 🙁
SO true and I know that I need to be more conscious of where my food and clothes originate from—and I find that it’s almost impossible to purchase clothing w/out the possibility someone the Tornado’s age created it.
Marshall’s, TJ Maxx, Daffy’s, Loehmann’s and outlet stores.
And yes, I’ve found lots of real deals there (and some splurges, like the $100 Michael Kors purse that originally $400).
Another thing to think about is what would happen if companies that used child workers were boycotted: they’d make cuts that would eventually impact the factory workers. Hurt their economic bottom line enough, and those workers could be out on the street, or forced into the sex trade.
So you’ve got moral issues both ways. Maybe not let it affect your shopping, but volunteer to make school and health kits, or make donations to causes instead of Christmas gifts?
Make your own, and/or learn to love the potato sack.
I am fortunate enough (and unfortunate enough) to live in one of trendiest most fashion filled city in the US, New York City. The easiest answer for me is thrift shopping. You would be appalled at what some people get rid of because it’s not fashionable this year. There’s no way I’m going to go out and pay designer prices for clothes, I think a lot of the prices are over inflated, however I will shop at a nice local boutique where the designer owns the place. Usually because the goods are made somewhere locally, even if it makes for a $30 t-shirt.
I also enjoy shopping for clothes that I like at a bargin price, but your article does bring up a great point n regards to the origin of the clothes and the ethical questions that go along with it. Out of curiosity, is there a list online of retail chains or clothing lines that are either made in the U.S.A. or thatt produce their merchandise in suitable working environments with reasonable wages going to their employees? If anyone knows of such a list, I think the information would be fantastic to have!
AMERICAN APPAREL!
The thing about Forever 21 and H&M – I love them but I always get so overwhelmed when I walk in. Racks and racks and racks of clothing. One of my friends is particularly good at sorting through everything and finding a gem. I get a little antsy. But I still love them.
I try to spend on classic pieces that are well made and that will last a long time. I look for sales and I am careful to take very good care of my clothes. I still have boots that I had when I was in high school – and I am in my 30’s now. I actually just wore them to an even a few months ago. I usually don’t do the cheaper trend stuff – I hate spending $20 on pants that will only fall apart after a few washings. I’d rather spend $100 and have them hold up.
AH! I wrote a whole paper in school about this!
The sad thing is, the women and children that work at those factories LOVE those jobs because they are the highest paying. The other option is usually digging through trash dumps.
Who knows what we’re supposed to do! I went to school for Apparel Design and mid-way through I had a huge guilt trip.
At 24, still attending unversity i am a frequenter of low-cost fashion outlets. I dream of trips to Target for inexpensive workout wear with brief stops at Forever 21, H&M, and the outlets on the way.
In our city, we have little stores that buy and sell gently used designer clothes and accessories. “Plato’s Closet” and “Dito” are the faves and Dito even carries maternity…
It's so sad how so much of the affordable clothing is made by slave labor!
I don't usually like wearing cheap clothes. I buy most of my clothes at local stores, so it's all a little bit more expensive but its good quality stuff! It makes me FEEL really great.
Also I've got some designer stuff- when I lived in Barcelona they had these designer stores and I felt the need to buy a couple shirts, I think one was nearly 100 euros. But I love it! Like with food, I'm willing to spend more money for really good quality.
Also, I don't have an H&M in my city. Everyone dreams of H&M here much the way that you once did 🙂
Wow – I have begun to purchase as much local and US food as possible but have not really thought about our clothing. I tend to live in workout clothes but for my daughters (I try to make them into the fashion statements that I never was as a teen). I buy the staples at Target (they make the best Ts and Tanks) and then get the expensive stuff mostly through eBay (you can get 7s and JCrew blazers at great prices). I try to stick with classic styles that they will now have for years to come and they always seem to look unique yet classy.
Ross and TJ Maxx? Or maybe thrift stores 🙂
To make you feel better, my husband visited a sweat shop in Mexico once. He said that the work in sweatshops were actually coveted by the locals because they paid higher and had better standards than other local jobs.
Don’t feel too bad.
I dunno, I LOVE thrift shopping. I feel a little more unique than in my old navy/target stuff that everyone else is wearing, and its super cheap to buy a whole new wardrobe every season, and recycle what you don’t want back to the same store (some even give you a discount!). I think once I find my size I want to stay at I’ll slowly work on accumulating nice and more pricey basics that don’t go out of style quickly, but there is no need to do it now when I shrink out of stuff within 3-6 months.
I don’t know the answer to the ethical question though. Something to consider, for sure, but I surely don’t have the answer.
I’m amazed that there aren’t more thrift-store shoppers. I myself rotate through through several local stores on a monthly basis.
You don’t realize what a truly spoiled nation we are until you shop at thrift stores. If you could plop one of these stores into a Star Trek transporter and send it to a third world village, they’d probably think they were wealthy beyond compare.
Besides lots of new and nearly-new clothing, I’ve scavenged wonderful buttons, trim, and large pieces of usable cloth from otherwise torn or stained clothing, and I’ve made some really cool handbags from embroidered jeans or other pants with fancy seams.
I had a shirt from H&M that I loved and wore a lot. It stretched and faded so quickly that you could watch the transformation each time it came out of the wash. Paying for better quality is worth it sometimes. Otherwise thrift shops are great – I have a friend who only buys second hand and she has a gorgeous wardrobe.
Alternatively if you have craft markets locally, there's plenty of young designers selling their stuff and it's usually pretty reasonable.
De-lurking because you’ve hit on something I feel so passionate about. Love your blog, Charlotte!
Most of us do feel guilty when we hear about this, because we know deep down that it’s not right, no matter how we try to rationalize it.
You have the option of avoiding this or at least minimizing the extent to which you benefit from someone else’s exploitation. Buy less clothes, search for US-made apparel, make your own clothes, shop at thrift stores. It’s hard, but don’t you want to make choices that match your values?
I have been reading your blog for a while now but just had to "de-lurk" for this one.
I personally am lucky enough to make a decent living and because I have the money to do so, I tend to seek out "guiltless" clothes – I never shop at Walmart or Forever 21 (even their "US-made" products are made at sweatshops in LA where workers – usually illegal immigrants – are subject to horrible working conditions), and I check labels at places like Target, etc. I certainly don't buy $800 purses but yes, I do spend a bit more on clothes because of this.
That being said, I have absolutely no problem with people who don't feel like they can spend the money buying things at those places. When it comes down to a family needing to provide for their children I think it is more than acceptable to do whatever necessary to ensure that their money is spent wisely.
Furthermore, it is often extremely difficult to find truly "sweatshop-free" clothes. I would suggest that if this is something that concerns people, that they look at how they can make a difference – by signing a petition, writing to their local congressman, and supporting organizations that do such work.
Oh, and btw – H&M? – actually pretty good on the treatment of workers. Check this out: http://www.coopamerica.org/programs/responsibleshopper/industry/clothing.cfm
🙂
– Yasmin
I don’t have an answer, either. I do know that whether I pay $25 or $800 for a dress, neither will get the women and children in Bangladesh a better livelihood. The bottom line is that no matter where we purchase from, the bulk of the money we spend goes to the ones at the top of the company. So I go incredibly cheap on my clothes. The last three dresses I bought were in the fall – $3.76 each for two floral dresses off the clearance rack at Kohls and $7.98 for a black linen wrap off the clearance rack at the Gap. And I have been complemented on all three. I would just rather spend my money elsewhere.
Up-scale consignment shops – they carry brands like Ann Taylor and Lilly. Since the money doesn’t go to the retailer, you don’t have to feel guilty. If you’re ever in Winston Salem, NC check out ETC. Consignment Shoppe
I was you a few years ago! Alas, as soon as I realized that 24.99 dress falls apart in anything but the gentlest of hand-washings, I realized it wasn’t worth it.
Now when I buy clothes, sales racks, thrift stores, and eBay is what works for me.
A big tip–only buy items that you absolutely, positively LOVE. Only buy items that fit you perfectly. And last but not least, only buy items that go with at least a few other components of your existing wardrobe.
After all, whether it’s cheap or not, what’s the point of purchasing that hot (insert clothing article here) if it looks like crap with everything else you own?
I only toss clothes when they become holey. If it becomes outdated then I put it into a separate section of my closet for later.
Case in point: I have a long black silk vest from 1993. It looks really cool and still fits perfectly, yet for the longest time I wasn’t able to wear it…until now! Now I can wear it with skinny jeans, a turtle neck, and a belt and look awesome.
I feel good about shopping at high quality thrift stores. There’s one in town (Miser’s Mercantile) that I buy almost all my clothes from.
That way, I can buy nice-looking (sometimes designer), affordable and well-made clothing that I can wear into the ground.
This provides me with quality clothing that I can afford, it’s nicer to the Earth, and it supports my local economy. A win-win-win.
I used to get all hot and bothered over buying Nike or other name brand clothes manufactured by low-paid workers overseas. I wonder though… are people who sleep under plastic bags better off or worse off for that $5 a day they earn?
Clearly, they consider themselves better off. Otherwise, why would they work in crap conditions for crap money? Maybe to them, it’s actually decent money. Maybe to me, a fat American who sits in a cube reading blogs it sounds awful, but maybe to them it’s the difference between eating or not eating.
So yeah. If my boycott of cheapie clothes lines could actually do something productive — as opposed to, say, reducing the likelihood of poor people being able to earn a living, I think I’d keep it up. But since it just makes it more likely that they’ll do something worse (use your imagination, what could women and children do for Americans that is more degrading and awful than making clothes. I think you get the picture), I buy the cheap stuff.
I haven’t found a way to rationalize the environmental impact though. I’ll get back to you when something comes to me.
Learn to sew.
Designer clothes you make yourself.
Win/win.
There’s a terrific website called Responsible Shopper for doing background research on corporations: http://www.coopamerica.org/programs/responsibleshopper/